Debt Consolidation Calculator
Compare what you're paying across your current debts against a single consolidation loan, monthly payment AND total interest, side by side, with an honest warning if a lower monthly payment means a longer term.
Not financial advice. This is an estimate, representative figures, not financial advice. If you're struggling with debt repayments, free, independent help is available from MoneyHelper (moneyhelper.org.uk) and StepChange (stepchange.org).
Add your debts and a consolidation loan
Enter a balance, APR and monthly payment for each debt, plus the consolidation loan's rate and term, to compare your current monthly total and interest against the consolidated loan.
How this comparison is calculated
For your current debts, each one is simulated separately at its own balance, APR and monthly payment, interest is added to the balance every month, then the payment is applied, until it clears. The consolidation loan is calculated the standard way any fixed-rate loan is: a level monthly payment over the term you choose, at the rate you enter. Total interest is simply the total repaid minus what you borrowed, for both sides. The comparison is deliberately shown as monthly payment AND total interest together, because looking at only one of them can be misleading, a lower monthly payment achieved by stretching the term is very often a more expensive decision in total.
What a consolidation loan actually does
Debt consolidation replaces several debts with one new loan. The new loan pays off the old balances, and you make a single monthly payment instead of four or five. Nothing is written off: the same amount is still owed, restructured onto different terms.
The genuine benefits are administrative and psychological, and they are real. One payment date is harder to miss than five. A fixed term gives a definite end date, which revolving credit-card debt never does, because a minimum payment is recalculated against a falling balance and can stretch out for decades.
The financial benefit depends entirely on whether the new rate and term beat the old ones, and those two factors pull in opposite directions. A lower rate saves money; a longer term costs it. Which wins is an arithmetic question, and it is the question this calculator exists to answer.
Why a lower monthly payment often costs more
This is the trap, and it is easy to fall into because the monthly figure is the one advertised. Interest accrues on a balance over time, so stretching repayment over more months means more months of interest, even at a lower rate.
Take three debts totalling £12,500 with a combined monthly payment of £440, clearing in four years and costing £4,952.92 in interest. Consolidating at 9.9% over ten years drops the payment to £164.50, a saving of £275.50 a month and a headline that sells itself. Over the full term it costs £7,240 in interest: £2,287.08 more, and six extra years in debt.
The same loan over five years instead costs £264.97 a month and £3,398.20 in interest, which is £1,554.72 less than doing nothing. Identical rate, identical balance, opposite verdict. The term is doing the work, not the rate.
So compare total interest and end date, not the monthly payment. If consolidating is the only way to afford the payments at all, that is a legitimate reason to accept the higher total, but it should be a decision made with the number visible.
Never secure unsecured debt without understanding the trade
Consolidation loans are offered both unsecured and secured against your home, and secured loans advertise lower rates because the lender's risk is lower. That reduction in risk comes from transferring it to you.
Credit card and personal loan debt is unsecured: default has serious consequences for your credit file and can end in a county court judgment, but your home is not directly at stake. Roll that debt into a loan secured on the property, and missed payments can lead to repossession. A second-charge loan or a remortgage to clear credit cards makes exactly this swap.
Secured terms are also typically much longer, so the two effects compound: a lower rate over a far longer period, frequently producing more total interest and a larger risk. If you are considering it, take free independent advice from MoneyHelper or StepChange first.
Alternatives that are often cheaper
A 0% balance transfer card moves credit card debt to an interest-free period, usually for a fee of around 2 to 3% of the balance. If you can clear the balance within the promotional window, this almost always beats a consolidation loan. The risk is the reversion rate at the end, so it works only with a plan to pay it down rather than park it.
A 0% money transfer card does the same for cash into your bank account, which can then clear an overdraft or a loan. Fees are higher than balance transfers but the arithmetic is the same.
If the goal is speed rather than affordability, the avalanche method, where you pay the minimum on everything and put every spare pound at the highest-APR debt, mathematically beats consolidation in most cases because it shortens the term rather than extending it. Our debt payoff calculator compares that against the snowball method.
If the payments are genuinely unaffordable rather than merely inconvenient, consolidation is the wrong tool. A debt management plan, or in more serious cases an IVA, is a different conversation, and free advice from StepChange or Citizens Advice costs nothing and does not sell you a product.
What to check before you apply
Look for early repayment charges on the new loan. Consumer Credit Act protections mean a regulated loan can always be settled early, but the lender may add up to 58 days of interest to the settlement figure, which erodes the benefit of overpaying.
Check whether the advertised APR is representative or personal. Only 51% of accepted applicants have to be given the representative rate, so the figure you are actually offered after a credit check may be higher, sometimes enough to change the answer entirely.
Use eligibility checkers that run a soft credit search rather than making multiple full applications, as a cluster of hard searches damages your file at the moment you most need it to look good.
Finally, be honest about the behaviour. Consolidation clears the credit cards but does not close them. Running the balances back up while also paying the consolidation loan is the single most common way this goes wrong, and it leaves you with more debt than you started with.
Worked example: £12,500 across three debts
A credit card, a store card and a personal loan, consolidated into one ten-year loan at 9.9%. These are the exact figures this calculator returns.
| Credit card, £4,500 at 24.9%, paying £150/mo | clears in 48 months |
|---|---|
| Store card, £1,800 at 29.9%, paying £70/mo | clears in 42 months |
| Personal loan, £6,200 at 12.9%, paying £220/mo | clears in 34 months |
| Current total monthly payment | £440.00 |
| Current total interest | £4,952.92 |
| Current time to clear everything | 48 months |
| Consolidation loan, £12,500 at 9.9% over 120 months | £164.50/mo |
| Consolidated total interest | £7,240.00 |
| Consolidated total repaid | £19,740.00 |
| Monthly payment saving | £275.50 |
| Extra interest paid overall | £2,287.08 |
£275.50 a month cheaper and £2,287.08 more expensive, with the debt-free date pushed from four years out to ten. Shortening the same loan to five years instead costs £264.97 a month and saves £1,554.72 against doing nothing, on the identical balance and the identical rate. The term decides the answer.
Frequently asked questions
- Does debt consolidation save money?
- Only if the new deal is genuinely cheaper overall, which depends on both the rate and the term. A lower rate saves money and a longer term costs it, so a consolidation loan that halves your monthly payment by doubling the term will usually cost more in total interest. Compare total interest and the date you become debt-free, not the monthly payment, which is the figure most likely to be advertised and least likely to tell you the answer.
- Will debt consolidation hurt my credit score?
- There is usually a short-term dip from the hard credit search and the new account, then a recovery as balances fall and payments are made on time. Clearing credit cards also cuts your credit utilisation, which typically helps. The real risk to your file is running the cleared cards back up while also servicing the consolidation loan, which leaves you more indebted than before.
- Is a secured consolidation loan a good idea?
- Be very careful. Securing a loan against your home buys a lower rate by putting the property at risk, converting debt that could not cost you your house into debt that can. Secured loans usually run over much longer terms too, so the total interest is frequently higher despite the lower rate. Take free independent advice from MoneyHelper or StepChange before turning unsecured debt into secured debt.
- What are the alternatives to a debt consolidation loan?
- A 0% balance transfer card is often cheaper for credit card debt if you can clear it within the promotional period, typically for a fee of 2 to 3%. A 0% money transfer card does the same for cash. The avalanche method, paying minimums everywhere and targeting the highest-APR debt with everything spare, usually beats consolidation because it shortens the term rather than lengthening it. If repayments are genuinely unaffordable, a debt management plan through StepChange or Citizens Advice is the right route, and it is free.
- Can I get a debt consolidation loan with bad credit?
- Sometimes, but at rates high enough that the arithmetic often stops working, since the point is to borrow more cheaply than the debts you are replacing. Check eligibility using soft-search tools rather than making multiple full applications, because several hard searches in a short period damage your file further. If the only offers available are above your current average rate, consolidation is not the answer and free debt advice is a better next step.
- Should I close my credit cards after consolidating?
- Closing them removes the temptation to rebuild the balances, which is the most common way consolidation fails. It also reduces your total available credit, which raises your utilisation ratio and can nudge your score down. A reasonable middle route is to keep the oldest account open with a zero balance, since length of credit history helps your file, and close the rest.
- How is the consolidation loan payment calculated?
- It uses the standard amortising loan formula, M = P × r / (1 − (1 + r)^−n), where P is the total balance consolidated, r is the APR divided by 1200 and n is the term in months. The payment is fixed for the whole term. Your existing debts are modelled differently, month by month at their own fixed payments, because credit cards and loans with different rates clear at different times.
- Can I pay off a consolidation loan early?
- Yes. A regulated consumer credit agreement can be settled early at any time under section 94 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974, and you receive a rebate of interest not yet incurred. The lender may add up to 58 days of interest when calculating the settlement figure on longer agreements, so the saving is slightly smaller than the raw balance suggests. Overpaying is still usually the best way to defuse a long-term consolidation loan.
Also known as: debt consolidation calculator · consolidation loan calculator · debt consolidation loan calculator · loan consolidation calculator · consolidate debt calculator · debt consolidation calculator UK · bill consolidation loan calculator
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